Wednesday, 21 January 2015

Climbing on the Banting Wagon

I can’t emphasise how important your meals are during your climb up the highest freestanding mountain in the world.  I didn’t really know what to expect from the meals on the mountain but they all serve the same menu.  Eggs and sausages fried in oil with toast and tomatoes in the morning.  Lunch is soup, saucy veg and fruit.  Dinner is saucy veg, soup and either chicken or beef in more sauce.  Every meal was variations of the same foods.  There is always a fruit of some kind and now and then popcorn as a snack.  It was delicious.  Each and every bite.  I forced myself to have a tea before a meal and a milo after a meal, even if I didn’t feel like anything more.  I was, however, starving during the summit.  They give you dinner before you go to bed and when you get up at 23:00 and start walking at 24:00 you only get sugary biscuits and tea.  I would have loved 4 boiled eggs for the road and would have even had canned viennas.

For snacks on the road, I took a few things from home.  Nut mix that we made ourselves… it included raisins, peanuts, seeds, dried berries and pecan nuts.  I also took small Bar Ones (chocolate bars) and Wine Gums (glucose sweets) for each day.  Super Cs (energy sweets) also did the trick.  My mother was awesome and sent Droeë Wors along and that definitely saved my hunger pains during the summit.  (Droeë Wors is a South African speciality).  The one essential thing for me was a Rehidrat Sport in the morning and in the evening.  This is a powder mixed with water that sportsmen and women drink to rehydrate after physical activity.  It replenishes the minerals used during activity.  So they say…

I can’t help but think that we would have done even better if we followed the Banting diet, which is a ketogenic diet with high fat and no carbs.  I realised this only recently after reading about the diet and watching endless YouTube Videos.  It seems that fat keeps you full for longer and that the slow release of energy is beneficial during a climb at altitude.

Watch this lecture by Tim Noakes, South Africa’s Dr Oz of the nutrition world. 

It will be difficult to explain to mountain chefs that you want a ketogenic menu but ask them not to take up bread or sugar.  Ask them to make eggs and bacon in butter – not oil.  They might still do what they have been trained to do so it will be up to YOU not to eat bread or sugar. 
Your snacks should be Biltong with fat (Beef Jerky) – South African Biltong is the best in the world by the way… include Droeë Wors (if you can’t find it take Italian sausages) and try not to take any sweets.  You won’t need it.  Focus on Almonds, Macadamia Nuts, Pecan Nuts, Pine Nuts and Pumpkin Seeds.  Unfortunately travelling with fresh produce is problematic so vacuum seal EVERYTHING.  Sniffer dogs are very sharp at the airport in Johannesburg!

I’m certainly not a nutrition expert and suggested the diet to my diabetic father.  He has been following a normal “healthy” diet since he had a stroke in 1991.  This consisted of low-fat everything, margarine, diet coke, brown bread, brown rice and no fat.  His diabetes caused him to lose a toe and now has a permanent swollen lower leg at the age of 69.  He did not really want to change his habits but watched a few videos and decided to cut out starch completely.  He had already cut out sugar since learning of his diabetes a few years prior.  On day 2 of his no starch diet, he saw an improvement in his energy levels.  He wasn’t tired after breakfast and he didn’t feel like snacking during the day.  Now he needs to up his fat intake!  Butter butter butter!!  Tim Noakes refers to a “chop” in his video… a Lamb Chop is the ultimate barbeque treat, especially with the fatty part.  For years we have been taught that the fat is BAD.  Now, at last, we can have as much of it as we want!  It will take time for us to get used to the high-fat diet as we have been brainwashed for years that fat will cause death.  What can we lose… according to the experts, we are all dying anyway, this may cause us to live a bit longer and to enjoy the food we cook… we don’t have to settle for low-fat anything!

Read more about the diet on www.realmealrevolution.com


Tuesday, 6 January 2015

These boots are made for walking

Hiking boots are probably the most important thing during your climb up Mount Kilimanjaro.  In South Africa, we don't really get a wide range of snow boots.  Our weather is pretty mild in comparison with the Northern Hemisphere.

When I started preparation for this adventure, I tried on ONLY 2 pairs of boots.  I don't know why... I mean there are so many boots on sale and I just looked at 2 different ones.

Firstly I believe that the boot needs to be high.  It protects your ankles (the last thing you need is a sprain or strain on the highest free-standing mountain in the world) and it keeps you warm.  Secondly, the shoe needs to be waterproof.  Not water resistant, WATERPROOF.  The other thing you don't want is a boot soaked in water.  They don't dry out - even in normal weather let alone freezing temperatures. Thirdly they should have soles that are tough and can grip successfully.  You will spend 6 to 8 days on your feet so the soles need to be strong enough for you not to feel each and every small rock after 2 hours.  Gripping is important especially on the way down. Finally, I believe that boots need to be light weight.  Each kilogramme you have to lift feels like ten at low altitude.

Cape Union Mart had a few options to choose from however at the moment (Dec 2014/Jan 2015) they only have 1 men's boot that may be able to do the job.  And not even the staff is convinced.  Let's hold thumbs that their new stock will arrive soon!

I went for this one.  The Salomon COSMIC 4D 2 GTX®

This is the men's version and I took a size larger than I usually wear.  You don't need to wear these in like in the old days.  If you buy them the day before you start your climb you will be able to climb without issues.  This make of shoe is small.  So if you have a wide foot or high bridge it is not for you.  That's why you need to try on a few.

They did a really good job.  This is them after the climb. I replaced the laces with elastic laces.  Too many people spoke of fingers not being able to lace boots because of cold so I went for an elastic. My feet were so ice cold during the summit.  So I don't think this boot will do in colder temperatures.

I think if it rained then I would have had wet shoes.  They say that they are waterproof but I am not convinced.  I didn't test water on them though...  I did not have any blisters and only my toes were a bit sore on the last day.  My socks were too tight.

In future, I may think about Keen boots.  They are wider and warmer.

I am sure there are many boot options to go for. Just try them all on and think about them being warm and waterproof.  It is a pity you can't take them back if you test them in water :)

www.africanreignsafaris.com


Monday, 5 January 2015

Are Hiking Poles Really Necessary?

I didn't read too much about hiking poles before we left other than looking at prices online.  The marketers that sell tours and get kick backs from certain famous shops like to try and punt all the unnecessary gear... And I thought poles were a bit overkill.

I saw pics of people hiking with just one pole which had a handle much the same as a normal walking stick or cane.  I had a look at the different ones available in stores and they all seemed the same.  Retractable shaft and wrist straps were standard.  All had protective rubbers on their ends and most had a little round "thingy" that I didn't know much about.  OK, I didn't know anything about it.

Turns out I left my job for a new one and the farewell gift were 2 K-Way Kilimanjaro Hiking poles from Cape Union Mart.  Yeah! Something I thought I didn't really need which I got as a gift.

K-Way, Hiking Poles, Kilimanjaro

My hiking buddies said: "you need to practice with those". So, off I went, hiking poles ready.  Man what an effort.  They are either in the way or too long or the terrain is too rocky... so I decided to take them to Tanzania with me and NOT to practice with them.

Unknown to most the rubber is not meant for rocky terrain but to protect the inside of your bags during the flight.  They fit into the duffel bag easily and I held thumbs that the airline staff would not force my bag into a funny position for them to be destroyed!  On arrival, they were fine and so was my bag...

On day one I had them ready.  I even fixed a GoPro to the handle in case I only wanted to use it as a monopod or extension pole.  I found out that even a GoPro is heavy and I had to swap sides every day.

hiking poles, Kilimanjaro

On day one the climb was already a challenge.  Thank goodness for these poles!  When walking they take off around 7 kg off your feet.  You get to lean forward when it really gets tough and they help you up the uphill parts when your legs can't do the work anymore.

I have to say the hiking poles are a must!  And even if you decide not to walk with them from day one, you will definitely need them on summit night.  That's when I leaned on them the most!

A tip is to adjust them once to the desired length and keep them that way.  They may freeze if you retract them before summit... Mine were quite long as I am tall so that I could pull my feet off the ground.

Even on the downhill, they helped a lot.  The ground is slippery at times and a hiking pole can assist when there are no branches or trees to grab onto.

Yes they make you walk slower and yes at times they are in the way but you walk slowly on Kili anyway...

If you plan to climb just one mountain, get the cheaper hiking poles.  Be aware though, they may not last the trip...

Tuesday, 9 September 2014

Why so much water?


The so called experts advise drinking a lot of water during your climb. But I really couldn't understand how that would help me. I mean I don't drink a lot of water during the day and only have a sip now and then during a training hike.

And who wants to stop for n pee break every hour. Because I have noticed that if I don't sweat, I pee a lot ;) 

Taking a whole hydration system to climb Kilimanjaro felt a bit extreme but I suppose there is a good reason for it...  I only realised this on the way down!

Drinking water helps to hydrate the lungs and brain. Your body is an engine and mostly comprises of water. The air is so dry that snow evaporates rather than melts. Drink water to keep your engine running!

I love this pack from K-Way. It takes a 2l hydration bladder and has some space for n rain jacket. Although a day pack is advised for climbing Kili, next time I will summit with only water and pay a porter extra to walk with my and carry clothes that I may want to take off. 


This pack is available at Cape Union Mart for R499. It does not include the bladder. I also needed to snip off a section of the pipe - it was a bit long. Luckily the nozzle squeezes back easily.

#k-way #capeunionmart #geartesting

Friday, 18 July 2014

Day 6 - Machame - 4 July 2014


I didn't take too many pictures on the way down.  We ran down.  It felt easy to run!  I don't even like running.  From Millennium Camp we walked down a steep walkway and we still needed hiking poles.  There was moisture in the soil and it was actually quite slippery.

We passed through Mweka camp where we should have camped.  It is a lovely tree covered camp and I am sure it would have been much too far for us to reach the summit.

After Millennium Camp the walk was easy - yet slippery.  The rain forest was beautiful.  It was misty all the way and we even put on our rain jackets at one stage.



After arrival at the Mweka Gate, we each had to sign out of course.  We had a cold beer - which Eddie bought at a shop outside the gate - inside the gate was toooooo expensive! You can also have your shoes washed for an amount of course but I decided I liked the look :)

Our transfer was waiting at the gate and it was so unreal being in a vehicle after reaching the summit of the highest free-standing mountain in the world! 

As we arrived flowers waited for our team.  We each had another beer and slowly but surely we had turns in the shower.



Of course we had to repack everything but for now, we would just enjoy the fact that we were on top of the world just a few hours ago....

Route Overview:
Distance:  20 km
Duration:  5-7 hours
Descent:  1990 m

www.africanreignsafaris.com





Day 4 and 5 (Summit) 2 and 3 July 2014

Our guide woke us at 23:00.  We rushed to get our remaining gear on and gathered in the tent for tea and biscuits.

We started the climb about an hour or so later.  We could see the headlamps of the groups that had already started.  It looked like stars! Winding up and up. Our group took it slow.  It was difficult to move with all the clothes and of course no oxygen.  We slowly made our way in the dark.  The temperature was not too bad - we even took off one layer.  We kept seeing the groups in front of us getting closer - so we must be doing well!

All the time guides were encouraging.  They adjusted gloves, hats, headlamps and took day packs from us.

The water really freezes on the way - I couldn't believe it - it didn't feel THAT cold?? My Rehadrat had turned to slush and my water pipe's nozzle froze - I had to chew it a bit for the water to get out.

Ye, h sunrise at last!  But oh no we weren't even close to Stella Point! We pushed on.  It felt a bit easier when we could see where we were going but also more difficult because we could see how slow we were going.

At last at around 08:00 we reached Stella Point.  Our group had split up in the meantime.  A few had fallen back and would only reach Stella.



After some time, waiting for a few of the team we pushed on.  It is not a good idea to wait too long - rather take a minute or 5 and carry on with the journey.

It took us over an hour to walk the last bit to Uhuru Peak.  I felt so alone at a stage - nobody in front of me and nobody behind me.  I just kept on going.  You could see the sign and it seemed so close. I waited for a while so that I would not summit alone. Everybody was exhausted.  Finally we made it!  2 guys were waiting for us with 2 guides.  WE MADE IT!!




Wow what a feeling - it was still so unreal.  We tried to take a few group pics and the first group members started feeling ill.  The guides started walking down.  The best way to feel better is to go DOWN.

I also felt like I needed to start walking.  It is still difficult but I felt less breathless.  As we went down the ground became more loose and sandy.  I ski'd down!

When you get to a stage the road ahead looks flat - ITS NOT! You go down down down.  I think we arrive at 14:00 or so - after being on my feet for so long, I felt so relieved to get to the tent!  I had time to wash my face and hair and get on some lighter clothes.  The others came down in drips and drabs but mostly about 10 to 15 minutes after one another.  We had to pack our stuff and WALK SOME MORE!

Because our group took a bit longer we only needed to get to Millennium Camp.  None the less, we still needed to get going to reach it before dark.

We had lunch, and started walking.  Our porters came running past us to set up in time.  It took about another 2 hours to get to the next camp.

We arrived and had dinner.  The air was cold and still thin but the group felt much better. After dinner we fell into bed and slept until 07:00.  It was difficult for me to find enough breath to sleep well but the group all had a great night's rest.  The next morning we needed to go very far.  Our guide gathered us together and said that it would be hard but that we needed to push on.

Read more

Route Overview:
Distance:  15 km (5km plus 10km)
Duration:  4-6 hours
Descent:  2075 m

www.africanreignsafaris.com

Day 4 - Machame - 2 July 2014

Our group was like a well-oiled machine by day 4.  Packed, breakfast served and ready to climb by 07:00.  We started off with gloves and hiking poles and only after a short walk the guides told us that poles would not be needed.... what was waiting for us????

I didn't do too much reading before we arrived so I had no idea what was up ahead.  I just followed the guide. We started climbing over boulders and ledges.  It was so much fun!  We slid past large rocks on ledges - the ledges were moderate - not too high and not really narrow. It was like playing around on a big playset.  I think everybody enjoyed it. A degree of fitness is definitely needed to enjoy this part of the journey - but if you are not too fit, you will still make it.

After the climb, we reached a plateau with great views and had a snack and water.  Onward!! from this point on it was down down down.  A difficult down I must say. The ground was like powder and you don't really have spots to grip... hiking poles help a lot! But stepping carefully is essential.



After reaching the valley, we had to go up again.  Wow, and what a steep up!! Once you stop you can't get yourself to start again - so don't stop! Up up up, porters passing you up up up some more!  When we reached the top we found our lunch tent waiting! (Karanga 3930m) After a short wait, we had to head on.  Here was more dust and more rocks.  We were now on our way to base camp.  Barafu camp (4681 m).


But before we reached the camp there were more uphills.  It felt like walking on broken slate tiles.  Everywhere you look there were rock towers that people built.  There's not much cover so every large boulder would be a bush toilet - but at least we beat the traffic so that was ok :)


Our sunbeam during the whole trip welcomed us on arrival - only to see that it was not the camp :( Another up up up!!

We pressed on and finally arrived at Basecamp - Barafu Camp.  You could see the summit!  And now we had to calm down and go to sleep!  How was this possible :)

The group had a quick dinner of soup, pasta and vegetables.  We tried to sort out our things for the summit.  It was difficult - racing breath and adrenaline rushing.  We put our heads down and slept for 4 hours....

Read more about the summit

Route Overview:
Distance:  4 km
Duration:  4-5 hours
Gain:  678 m


Summit
Distance:  5 km
Duration:  7-8 hours
Gain:  1222 m

www.africanreignsafaris.com