Day 6 - Machame - 4 July 2014

I didn't take too many pictures on the way down.  We ran down.  It felt easy to run!  I don't even like running.  From Millennium Camp we walked down a steep walkway and we still needed hiking poles.  There was moisture in the soil and it was actually quite slippery.

We passed through Mweka camp where we should have camped.  It is a lovely tree covered camp and I am sure it would have been much too far for us to reach the summit.

After Millennium Camp the walk was easy - yet slippery.  The rain forest was beautiful.  It was misty all the way and we even put on our rain jackets at one stage.

After arrival at the Mweka Gate, we each had to sign out of course.  We had a cold beer - which Eddie bought at a shop outside the gate - inside the gate was toooooo expensive! You can also have your shoes washed for an amount of course but I decided I liked the look :)

Our transfer was waiting at the gate and it was so unreal being in a vehicle after reaching the summit of the highest free-standing mountain in the world! 

As we arrived flowers waited for our team.  We each had another beer and slowly but surely we had turns in the shower.

Of course we had to repack everything but for now, we would just enjoy the fact that we were on top of the world just a few hours ago....

Route Overview:
Distance:  20 km
Duration:  5-7 hours
Descent:  1990 m

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Day 4 and 5 (Summit) 2 and 3 July 2014

Our guide woke us at 23:00.  We rushed to get our remaining gear on and gathered in the tent for tea and biscuits.

We started the climb about an hour or so later.  We could see the headlamps of the groups that had already started.  It looked like stars! Winding up and up. Our group took it slow.  It was difficult to move with all the clothes and of course no oxygen.  We slowly made our way in the dark.  The temperature was not too bad - we even took off one layer.  We kept seeing the groups in front of us getting closer - so we must be doing well!

All the time guides were encouraging.  They adjusted gloves, hats, headlamps and took day packs from us.

The water really freezes on the way - I couldn't believe it - it didn't feel THAT cold?? My Rehadrat had turned to slush and my water pipe's nozzle froze - I had to chew it a bit for the water to get out.

Ye, h sunrise at last!  But oh no we weren't even close to Stella Point! We pushed on.  It felt a bit easier when we could see where we were going but also more difficult because we could see how slow we were going.

At last at around 08:00 we reached Stella Point.  Our group had split up in the meantime.  A few had fallen back and would only reach Stella.

After some time, waiting for a few of the team we pushed on.  It is not a good idea to wait too long - rather take a minute or 5 and carry on with the journey.

It took us over an hour to walk the last bit to Uhuru Peak.  I felt so alone at a stage - nobody in front of me and nobody behind me.  I just kept on going.  You could see the sign and it seemed so close. I waited for a while so that I would not summit alone. Everybody was exhausted.  Finally we made it!  2 guys were waiting for us with 2 guides.  WE MADE IT!!

Wow what a feeling - it was still so unreal.  We tried to take a few group pics and the first group members started feeling ill.  The guides started walking down.  The best way to feel better is to go DOWN.

I also felt like I needed to start walking.  It is still difficult but I felt less breathless.  As we went down the ground became more loose and sandy.  I ski'd down!

When you get to a stage the road ahead looks flat - ITS NOT! You go down down down.  I think we arrive at 14:00 or so - after being on my feet for so long, I felt so relieved to get to the tent!  I had time to wash my face and hair and get on some lighter clothes.  The others came down in drips and drabs but mostly about 10 to 15 minutes after one another.  We had to pack our stuff and WALK SOME MORE!

Because our group took a bit longer we only needed to get to Millennium Camp.  None the less, we still needed to get going to reach it before dark.

We had lunch, and started walking.  Our porters came running past us to set up in time.  It took about another 2 hours to get to the next camp.

We arrived and had dinner.  The air was cold and still thin but the group felt much better. After dinner we fell into bed and slept until 07:00.  It was difficult for me to find enough breath to sleep well but the group all had a great night's rest.  The next morning we needed to go very far.  Our guide gathered us together and said that it would be hard but that we needed to push on.

Read more

Route Overview:
Distance:  15 km (5km plus 10km)
Duration:  4-6 hours
Descent:  2075 m

www.africanreignsafaris.com

Day 4 - Machame - 2 July 2014

Our group was like a well-oiled machine by day 4.  Packed, breakfast served and ready to climb by 07:00.  We started off with gloves and hiking poles and only after a short walk the guides told us that poles would not be needed.... what was waiting for us????

I didn't do too much reading before we arrived so I had no idea what was up ahead.  I just followed the guide. We started climbing over boulders and ledges.  It was so much fun!  We slid past large rocks on ledges - the ledges were moderate - not too high and not really narrow. It was like playing around on a big playset.  I think everybody enjoyed it. A degree of fitness is definitely needed to enjoy this part of the journey - but if you are not too fit, you will still make it.

After the climb, we reached a plateau with great views and had a snack and water.  Onward!! from this point on it was down down down.  A difficult down I must say. The ground was like powder and you don't really have spots to grip... hiking poles help a lot! But stepping carefully is essential.

After reaching the valley, we had to go up again.  Wow, and what a steep up!! Once you stop you can't get yourself to start again - so don't stop! Up up up, porters passing you up up up some more!  When we reached the top we found our lunch tent waiting! (Karanga 3930m) After a short wait, we had to head on.  Here was more dust and more rocks.  We were now on our way to base camp.  Barafu camp (4681 m).

But before we reached the camp there were more uphills.  It felt like walking on broken slate tiles.  Everywhere you look there were rock towers that people built.  There's not much cover so every large boulder would be a bush toilet - but at least we beat the traffic so that was ok :)

Our sunbeam during the whole trip welcomed us on arrival - only to see that it was not the camp :( Another up up up!!

We pressed on and finally arrived at Basecamp - Barafu Camp.  You could see the summit!  And now we had to calm down and go to sleep!  How was this possible :)

The group had a quick dinner of soup, pasta and vegetables.  We tried to sort out our things for the summit.  It was difficult - racing breath and adrenaline rushing.  We put our heads down and slept for 4 hours....

Read more about the summit

Route Overview:
Distance:  4 km
Duration:  4-5 hours
Gain:  678 m

Summit
Distance:  5 km
Duration:  7-8 hours
Gain:  1222 m

www.africanreignsafaris.com

Day 3 - Machame - 1 July 2014

We had an early start - getting away while other groups were having breakfast.  It was difficult.  Breathing was becoming an effort and from this point, we had rocks and more rocks around us.  Our goal was to get to Lava Tower.

The temperature was not hot nor cold - however, sunburn would be a danger - we applied and re-applied twice a day.

A buff around your mouth is a good idea if you want to keep the dust away.  The path is long and not very steep but at stages, you can really see how high you are.

Usually, groups climb Lava Tower but our guide told us that it was not safe.

Lava tower is 4642 m above sea level.  It is an impressive piece of rock towering above the rocky desert.

We had lunch inside the tent on this day - it was welcome.  I was glad to see the lunch tent each time.  Slap chips and saucy vegetables with the usual soup and tea.

After lunch, we had about 10 minutes to sit and rest and off we went again.  This time we reached a valley and it felt like we were going down for once. It was another very long and tiring day and my feet started to "make mistakes" by stumbling... I felt exhausted.

Finally, we reached Barranco Camp (3984 m).  This was by far my favourite camp.  We got to sort out our bags outside - no wind - no downhill. I got to wash my feet and also do a hospital bath (hence the small face cloth).  The toilets were actually in a good state and one could even squat in piece. You still need to catch your breath after zipping open the tent but at least the camp was like a holiday :)

After dinner, I felt ill for the first time on the trip.  I took some pain medication and another Diamox and passed out.  I slept very well and felt great the next morning. We would once again get up even earlier to beat the main traffic.  Barranco wall would be difficult and technical.

Read more Day 4

Route Overview:
Distance:  10 km
Duration:  6-8 hours
Gain:  166 m

www.africanreignsafaris.com

Day 2 - Machame - 30 June 2014

After a terrible night's downhill rocky sleep we got up early and enjoyed breakfast.  It included porridge, eggs, warm drinks and fruit.  Lovely.

During breakfast, they fill up water bottles and the scramble starts to get going before the other groups.

On this day it was a steep climb.  A winding path up the mountain between boulders, fynbos-like vegetation and porters all around you.  They almost run past you with a large bag on their backs.  Some carrying gas bottles and other chairs and tables.  They have to rush to the next camp and be set up by the time we get there!

This felt a little easier - there was lots to look at and a few technical ups and downs.  You see Ravens all around and at our lunch stop, we each got a bag with a fruit juice, piece of chicken, boiled egg and half of an orange.  You see the summit all the time - around each corner, you get a different view.  I didn't really realise where we were headed - it felt very unreal.

On arrival at Shira Camp (3847m) the wind was howling.  But what a view.  This is a scenic camp and we had a lot of spare time to rest.  Already we could feel the effects of altitude.  A few people had diarrhoea and headaches.  Others were just taking things slow. The wind was cold - but it felt warmer than the previous night.

After some reorganising and getting ready for the next day we had dinner and dove into our sleeping bags soon after sunset.  The wind blew the side of the tent right into me half of the night.  Everything was dusty and if you don't concentrate you will have a mouth full of sand.  I asked the guide about the wind and he said it was very unusual.

Having some time after the hike and before sunset was really great.  We could chat about the past 2 days and what lay ahead.  We discussed our outfit for the next day and we also decided to get up earlier to beat the "traffic".

Read more Day 3

Route Overview:
Distance:  5 km
Duration:  4-6 hours
Gain:  960 m

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Day 1 - Machame - 29 June 2014

After breakfast we would be picked up at 09:00!  The 12 adventurers were very VERY excited.  Gerhard had a small scale with him so we could "weigh in" so to speak.  Here and there we were over by 2 to 5 kg.  That would be US$4 per kilo.  Not a lot of money if you think about it... We took a Diamox (not going for halves but full ones) and off we went!

On arrival at the gate our driver offloaded all the bags and the porters started the big job of dividing everything (including their own stuff) into piles.  Each porter is only allowed to carry 20kg.  What a task.

In the meantime we signed in at the gate - passport numbers are needed so rather take a copy of yours with you.  A pen is a definite yes!

After the sign in, we each received a lunch pack - which we were supposed to eat on the way.  We filled our water bottles and hydration packs.  We waited and waited and waited and after a long while waited some more.  While the tour operators from African Reign Safaris did some negotiations we waited some more. We were the second group to arrive and the last to depart!

From the very get go the path was steep.  My hiking poles were out - and initially I felt that they were a bit in the way but after a few hours they helped - a lot! I can see how difficult it would be if there was a lot of rain - a little rain for that matter.

The scenery was lovely - large green ferns and moss everywhere.  You don't see or hear any animals and I only saw a large row of ants once.  The temperature is not too high but we were working up a sweat. The day became long and after stopping for lunch and water and pee breaks we just couldn't see the end. A few of us decided to sprint - that's walking fast in Kili terms - to the camp.  We made it just before sun set.  Wow - already above the clouds!  It was already freezing.  I though by myself that if the first night was this cold - how will we feel at summit?

We arrived at Machame Hut at 3020 m, did the first of many sign ins and had warm tea.  They dinner tent not only offered warm tea, but coffee, Milo, popcorn and soup.  After soup we had a stew with potatoes.  After a very long day on our feet we jumped into bed.

The tents were up and each of us had quite a comfortable mattress.  I shared with 2 people but usually you share with only 1 person.  It is a bit of a struggle to do everything inside the tent.  And unfortunately we slept downhill - so not a good first night for me.

The trick is to get to camp with time to spare to change clothes - sleeping in tomorrows outfit - and to re-arrange your bag.  This happens so often that if you do it in the day time it goes much quicker.  The other reason for getting to camp with time to spare is so that you can use the toilets before the masses arrive - before they are too dirty. Unfortunately this is a little messy but if you time it well you only have to use it one - the rest of the time you can go outside :)

Night one done! Tomorrow would be more difficult - so we prepared ourselves mentally.....

Read more Day 2...

Route Overview:
Distance:  11km
Duration:  5-7 hours
Gain:  1210 m

www.africanreignsafaris.com

Preparation and Departure - 27 June 2014

So finally the day came!  We had trained since March 2013 and we actually felt a bit bored with the training at the end.  Today was the day that I would fly to Tanzania and see the mountain I had been dreaming about for 18 months.

So packing for this adventure was difficult. I had to consider a few things:

1. I was only allowed 16 kg of stuff for Kili
2. I had to think of the days before and after Kili
3. I could at least fly with 30 kg of stuff.

I decided to use zip lock bags to keep all my gear dry.  Every day would have its own bag, marked clearly so that I would not have to search for anything.  This was a great idea.  Really great :)

Sorting my clothes and things was easy; stuffing them into zip lock bags was not as easy.  And trying to fit everything into the duffel bag was impossible.

I ended up using a normal suite case, folding my duffel bag and putting it inside the suitcase, packing all of the other stuff on top of it.  Phew, 27 kg!!

What did I take with me?

1.  Long quick dry pants and shirt with liner socks and TK2 socks plus hiking boots - I would also fly with this outfit.
2.  The same pants and shirt for day 2 plus a thin fleece and fresh socks.
3.  Fleece lined ski pants, long sleeve t-shirt, thin fleece and rain jacket (the rain jacket was in my day pack from day 1 in case of rain in the forest)
4.  Fleece lined pants (again), long sleeve t-shirt, thin fleece and a thick fleece - fresh socks.
5.  For summit I would wear, ski socks, thermal pants, fleece lined pants, fleece tracksuit pants, rain pants and gators. Thermal shirt times 2, thin fleece, thick fleece, feather jacket, another feather jacket, windproof jacket and a wool hat, glove liners and gloves.
6.  I also packed normal ski pants for the way down and 2 extra fleeces in case of cold.  I also had a few buffs, a hat and of course fresh under ware for every day.

With all of that the extra stuff would be:
1. Hiking poles
2. Self-inflating mattress
3. Travel sheet
4. Shoes other than hiking boots (for after a long day's walk)
5. Sleeping bag - this I couldn't fit in my luggage - it had to be hand luggage.
6.  Pillow - also doubling as a travel pillow on the flight.
7.  Medication - oh my word what a bag full
8.  travel towel
9.  Loads of wet wipes, tissues and sunblock
10. Small face cloth
11. Snacks - I took too much - cut down but don't cut out
12.  Daypack - your backpack for each day - mine doubled as hand luggage and it also took my empty water bag as well as cameras and batteries.

All of this managed to find its way to Kilimanjaro International Airport.

TIP:

1.  Wrap your bag in plastic and lock it with a cable tie
2.  Take a small lock with you for the mountain - porters can sometimes be sneaky
3.  Batteries and other electronics can be taken away from you at certain airports - they took a new pack of batteries at Kigali.  And the also make you take off everything.

So we arrived after a day in the air (with only one connection in Kigali).  The trip to Moshi took about an hour - and we checked into Backpacker's Paradise.

What a nice spot in the middle of the chaos.  It is safe and secure with many rooms with en-suite facilities as well as a dorm.  It as a small kitchen and an area to wash clothes.  Water is hot and toilets flush :) They have a well-stocked fridge with beers, soft drinks and water.  The owner is awesome and comes around every day to have a chat with guests.  He also has his own curio shop around the corner.  Go and Visit Rasta and his wife and child.

www.africanreignsafaris.com